Easy NO TOOL Way To Level Your Washing Machine

Easy NO TOOL Way To Level Your Washing Machine

The most frustrating thing about my washer? It’s ALWAYS stopping with the dreaded UL error. But why? It’s not an old washer. And it always seems to happen when I’m trying to get ready for company. I throw sheets or towels in the washer and rush around doing my cleaning. Head to the grocery store and return to find my clothes never completed their cycle.


I remember my mom showing me how to “rebalance” the load by redistributing the weight of the sopping wet clothes. So that’s what I do. Over and over and over again.

Finally sick and tired of it, I began to ponder the root cause. What if it’s my floor? Maybe my floor isn’t level! AHA! I can adjust the legs and just maybe I won’t have an issue anymore. Well, the verdict is out, but it’s worth a try. Here’s how I did it:

1) Used a regular level from our toolbox. It showed the machine was unlevel. But, guess what? The top of my washing machine slopes. Great. I tried so many things that would be a total waste of your time. So, let’s hit number two.

2) I downloaded a bubble-level app. PURE joy. I was able to put my phone RIGHT into the drum of the washer to precisely level the washer!

3) How to level the washer? Here’s what you need:

– Something to raise the washer. Ideally, wooden blocks. What did I use? A sturdy cooking pot.
– Your phone with the Bubble Level app installed.
– Some people use a crescent wrench to adjust the legs of the washing machine. If it is propped up and stable, I just use my hands.
– A bit of patience.

4) With the phone inside the washer, gently lift the front of your washing machine to see if the front should be raised or lowered. If the bubble is hanging out to the right or left of the center, gently raise one side or the other. Your machine can be unlevel front to back or side to side. Here’s how mine looked after I finished the job:


If you’re certain your machine is level and the problem continues, give us a call! Occasionally, suspension rods supporting the drum fail. If you call 1-800-841-0312 with your model number, we’ll be happy to talk with you and help you determine what’s causing your issue. Or, you’re welcome to search online for parts you need by clicking here:

https://a-1appliance.com

Good luck with this and ANY home appliance repair 🙂

How to Clean Oven Glass Easily!

Cleaning Your Oven Glass

In a few short weeks, it will be time to slide your turkey into the oven! Now is the time to prepare your oven for holiday meals and baking.

Since most ovens are self cleaning, what are we talking about? Many of our customers ask about how to clean that stubborn, brown splatter from your inner glass door. We decided to offer you a few methods. Before we do, if your oven light bulb has gone out, order a replacement today! Nothing is more frustrating than having to open your oven to check a cake and let the temperature drop.  Click below to find your replacement oven light bulb:

Check For Replacement Bulbs

Ready to start cleaning? Here’s one method recommended by many homeowners for light jobs:

  1. Use a scraper or old credit card to remove stuck-on food that will scrape off easily.
  2. Mix ½ cup baking soda with a few tablespoons of water to create a paste.
  3. Spread the paste over the oven glass and let sit for about 20 minutes allowing the debris to break down and soften.
  4. Use a soft cloth or sponge to start gently scrubbing the glass in circular motions. A non-abrasive scrubbing pad is helpful for extra stubborn spots.
  5. Mix equal parts vinegar and water in a spray bottle. Spray the glass and use a soft cloth to wipe the glass. Repeat until the oven glass sparkles.
  6. Do a final rinse with water and use a microfiber cloth.

If you have a really grimy oven glass, one of our customer recommends the following:

  1. Purchase a scraper and some non-abrasive scrubbing pads made for cooktops. Here are links to both items:

Neon Mini Scraper

Non-Abrasive Pads (These are non-metal and anti-bacterial, too!)

  • A product we offer for cooktop cleaning also works well on glass. It’s called Cerama Bryte® Cooktop Cleaner. There’s a kit including a scraper or it can be purchased separately. They also make a Burnt-On Grease Remover. Here are links to these products:

Cerama Bryte Cooktop Cleaner

Cerama Bryte Burnt-On Grease Remover

Cerama Bryte Cleaning Kit With Cleaner Scraper & Scratch-Free Pads

  • Spread the cleaner over ¼ of the glass space. Allow it to penetrate for about 5 minutes.
  • Using your scraper or blade, scrape gently at a 45 degree angle. Wipe away and move to the next segment of the oven glass.
  • After the major debris has been removed, spread the cleanser in a thin film across the glass. Use a damp sponge in circular motions to remove any residue.
  • Apply one more thin application of your Cerama Bryte®. Let it dry for a couple of minutes and then use a microfiber cloth or soft lint-free towel to remove the product.

There are a number of videos out there to guide you as well. We liked this one! While the cleaning product differs, the methods are helpful.

How to Clean Oven Glass Easily

As always, let us know if we can help you with any of your appliance parts or supplies. In the meantime, Happy Cooking 😊

How To Clean Refrigerator Condenser Coils

Refrigerator Condenser Coils
Dirty Refrigerator Condensor Coils

When it’s hot outside, your refrigerator works hard. You can help it perform more efficiently (and last longer) by regularly cleaning areas that impact airflow. Like your HVAC unit, your refrigerator draws air through condenser coils. The coils release heat to help cool the interior of the refrigerator. Here’s what they need to stay in great condition:

1. Many refrigerators have a plastic, louvered cover on the front bottom of the unit. Open the refrigerator doors and you should be able to remove the front cover.


2. Move the refrigerator away from the wall. UNPLUG the refrigerator. If you have an ice maker or water dispenser, be careful to avoid pulling the water line free. The back of the unit may have significant dust accumulation. Using either a soft vacuum brush or a soft cloth, remove the dust from the back of your refrigerator. If the dust is extremely heavy or if you haven’t ever cleaned the coils, you will need to remove the coil cover. Typically, there are screws on the cover. We always recommend taking a photo before removing any screws for future reference. Again, make sure your unit is disconnected from the plug. Once the coils are exposed, gently vacuum them to remove built-up dust. This helps your compressor operate efficiently and may reduce energy usage.

3. Clean dust and debris from underneath the refrigerator. This also contributes to reduced airflow.

4. Mark your calendar for three months out to repeat these simple tasks. If you keep dust off of the cover of your condenser coils, you won’t need to remove the cover every time. If your condenser coils overheat, this will lead to compressor failure over time which is a costly repair.

5. When you move your refrigerator back into its space, make sure there is open space on either side so air can circulate under and around the unit.

We recommend this two-minute video to familiarize yourself with the entire process:
How To Clean Refrigerator Condenser Coils

For added efficiency, consider using organized storage containers so air can flow freely inside your refrigerator. Your refrigerator should maintain a temperature between 35 degrees Fahrenheit and 38 degrees Fahrenheit. Freezers should be set to 0 degrees or lower.

Why Isn’t My Icemaker Making Ice?

In our experience, these things tend to happen when you really NEED ice! While different freezer brands have different parts for their specific brand, many of the common issues are the same. Since you asked, we should point out the common issues to check first!

  1. Make sure the ice maker has not been accidentally turned off.
  2. Check the arm of your ice maker to be certain it hasn’t gotten hung on a piece of falling ice. Wo
  3. Check the ice maker bin to ensure it is properly placed. Occasionally, this can prevent the ice maker from working.

If these easy fixes are ruled out, check to see if the ice maker is filling with water or not. If not, the water filter could be the culprit. If it’s clogged, you may not be getting good flow to the ice maker. If you change your water filter regularly, this is unlikely.

If the ice maker isn’t filling and it’s not an issue with the filter, here’s what you can check:

  1. Check the water line to the ice maker for kinks or leaks.
  2. Check the temperature level in the freezer. Occasionally, you can have a piece of ice in the water line.
  3. If none of the above is your answer, it’s likely a bad water valve.

Signs of a faulty water valve are:

  1. Ice cubes are smaller than normal.
  2. Water is running down the back of the freezer.
  3. You notice a frozen puddle of water in your freezer.

Before you begin your repair, here’s an easy test to determine if your water valve is faulty or if it’s the icemaker component.

  1. Fill the ice maker tray with water.
  2. Wait approximately two hours. If the ice kicks out into the bin, it’s probably the water valve. If not, it’s more likely the icemaker itself.

If you see any water behind the freezer, that’s also a sign of a leaking water valve. Here’s what a valve looks like for the icemaker:

Appliance Parts Ice Maker Water Valve
Appliance Parts – Water Valve Ice Maker

Changing a water valve out isn’t as difficult as you may think. Most people say it’s about a 15–30-minute process. Several videos are available to walk you through the process. Here’s a link to one we found. If you’d like to skip through troubleshooting, you’ll find the valve change out at the 5:52 timestamp.

Walter Valve Changeout (Courtesy of Mike Biker Canada via YouTube

If you need any help with your issue, give us a quick call. Be sure to have the information containing your brand, model number, and serial number. You’ll normally find this just inside the door of most refrigerators or freezers. If you’ve already determined you need parts, click to order online, or visit one of our locations!

Phone: 1-800-841-0312

Link to Locations

As always, we appreciate you! Please let us know if you need any help with your appliance repair project!

Is Changing The Water Filter In Your Refrigerator Important?

If you’re like most people, changing the water filter in your fridge is probably not high on your list of priorities. After all, it’s just a small cartridge that filters the water going into your fridge, right? Well, not quite.


Let’s talk about what your fridge’s water filter actually does. As water passes through the filter, it removes impurities like chlorine, sediment, and other contaminants that can affect the taste and quality of your water. Over time, however, the filter can become clogged with these impurities, reducing its effectiveness, and potentially even allowing harmful particles to pass through.
So, how often should you change your water filter? Well, it depends on a few factors. Most manufacturers recommend replacing the filter every six months, but this can vary depending on how much you use your fridge’s water dispenser and ice maker, as well as the quality of your water supply. If you notice that your water flow is slowing down or the taste of your water has changed, it’s probably time for a new filter.


But do you really need to change it? The short answer is yes. Not only does a clogged filter affect the taste and quality of your water, but it can also lead to more serious problems. For example, if bacteria or other harmful particles are allowed to pass through a dirty filter, they can potentially contaminate your water supply and make you sick.


In addition, if you don’t change your filter regularly, it can put more strain on your fridge’s compressor and other components, potentially leading to costly repairs down the road. So, while changing your water filter may not be the most exciting task, it’s an important one to keep your fridge running smoothly and your water supply safe and clean.


In some states, there are additional concerns with water quality due to various environmental factors, so it’s important to be especially diligent about changing your water filter. Make sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for each filter and replace them on a regular basis to ensure the best possible water quality for you and your family.


We sell water filters and parts for brands like GE, Samsung, Whirlpool, LG, Kitchen Aid, Amana, Frigidaire, Hotpoint, Jenn-Air, Kenmore, Maytag, and others. Visit one of our stores or shop online at A1.Parts. You can also call us at 1-800-841-0312.

Affordable Dryer Heating Elements

There was a time when an electric clothes dryer was a luxury… When no one really needed the fancy fabric ovens except for people who had more money than they had sense! Clothes lines were cheap and solar energy was falling out of the sky. Now, however, it seems we look at clothes dryers as a necessity.

Even though manufacturers have kept the cost of a dryer low (accounting for cost-of-living increases, inflation, and the devaluation of our currency as the government prints more money… ugh!). But while the appliance may be a bargain, when you need a part for it some of the manufacturers think it’s time to cash in!

At the time of this writing, for example, the most common Samsung dryer element DC97-14486A sells for over $200!! Just the inside part, DC47-00019A, without the housing and thermostats is $80. $200 for a dryer element. Really? There are alternatives though. A US company (Supco) is making replacement elements for Samsung at a fraction of the cost. You can take a look here: DC97-14486A and DC47-00019A. They even make a re-string kit (just the wire) because that’s all you really need usually: DC4700019AC

DC97-14486A

And Samsung isn’t the only manufacturer that they make replacement elements for. You can see them listed out here for Frigidaire / Electrolux, Whirlpool, LG, Samsung, etc. along side the original manufacturer’s versions.

LG’s most common element, 5301EL1001H, is over $200… The Supco version of this is less than half that price (5301EL1001). How can this be? I know the cost of production can’t be higher for these South Korean companies… Maybe the transportation cost affects them?

At any rate, if you have your model number you can see all the options available at A-1Appliance.com (just be sure to put the model # in the model # search field and not the part # search field). And click on the element once you see it to get to it’s specific page where there will be notes on it and associated parts linked.

How does a refrigerator work?

Have you ever wondered how your refrigerator works? Some people think that a refrigerator generates cold air but this is actually backwards. Air is naturally cold- heat is the odd thing in the universe! The temperature in space without any heat from a star is very cold (-273.15°C or -459.67°F). So the refrigerator doesn’t need to generate cold air, all it has to do is remove the heat from the air already inside. This is done with a refrigerant which is a liquid with a very low boiling point. Even gasoline can be used to build a refrigerator (but that wouldn’t be the safest option).

The refrigerator works by removing heat from the interior of the fridge and expelling it to the outside through the condenser coil. This is usually underneath the refrigerator. The basic process is:

  1. A refrigerant, a liquid chemical that is capable of absorbing and releasing heat, is compressed into a high-pressure gas by, you guessed it, the compressor. This raises the temperature of the gas- temperature and pressure are related. Kind of like when you have a deadline at work that you can’t quite make…
  2. The hot gas is then passed through a set of coils on the back or bottom of the fridge, where it releases heat to the surrounding air, causing the gas to cool and condense into a liquid. On refrigerators with the condenser coil in the bottom of the refrigerator, a condenser fan motor is used to force air through the coil and the heat is absorbed by this air and pushed into the kitchen from the back of the refrigerator and possible a louvered grill in the front.
  3. The liquid refrigerant then flows through an expansion valve, where it rapidly expands, causing it to evaporate into a low-pressure gas. If you picture a water hose spraying a fine mist, that is the idea.
  4. As the refrigerant evaporates, it absorbs heat from the interior of the freezer, cooling the air inside. The evaporator coil in the freezer section spreads the cold air to the refrigerator section with a fan motor (the evaporator fan motor). This evaporator coil tends to frost over as the moisture that comes in when the door is opened freezes to the coil. It defrosts itself with a timed defrost system using a defrost heating element, a defrost thermostat, and a defrost timer or defrost board. (If the defrost system isn’t working the passage air travels from the freezer to the refrigerator will get blocked with ice and the refrigerator section will grow warm.)
  5. The low-pressure gas is then drawn back into the compressor, where the cycle starts again. Once the target temperature is acheived, the refrigerator thermostat will stop the compressor until it is needed again later.

This continuous process of compressing and expanding the refrigerant allows the fridge to maintain a constant temperature inside, typically between 35-38°F (2-3°C), regardless of the temperature outside. Additionally, insulation in the walls of the fridge helps to retain the cool air and further stabilize the temperature.

If the condenser coil gets dirty (it just naturally does over time), it’s good to use a special condenser coil brush to get between the fins on the coil.

Condenser cleaning brush kit PM14X10056

Basically, refrigerators use a cycle of compressing, condensing, and evaporating the refrigerant to remove heat from inside the freezer section. This also happens to be how an air conditioner works. I guess you could say we all live in refrigerators here in Alabama!

Where did clothes dryers come from?

The history of the clothes dryer can be traced back to the early 19th century, when people began to use hand-cranked wringers to extract water from their clothes after washing them. The first patent for a clothes dryer was issued in the United States in 1892 to George T. Sampson, who invented a machine that used heat from a stove to dry clothes. However, it wasn’t until the late 1930s that the first electric clothes dryer was invented.

In 1938, J. Ross Moore, an American inventor, created the first electric dryer called the “Hamilton Manufacturing Company’s Ventilator.” This dryer was large and expensive, and it was primarily used in commercial settings such as laundromats and hotels.

In the early days of the electric dryer, they were expensive and not very efficient. They also had a reputation for being dangerous, as some models would overheat and catch fire. However, improvements in design and safety features, such as the addition of thermostats and fuses, made them more reliable.

Over time, improvements were made to the design of the electric dryer, and it became more affordable and widely available for home use. By the 1950s and 1960s, clothes dryers became increasingly popular in American homes, as more and more families moved to the suburbs and had access to electricity. The advent of synthetic fabrics in the 1960s also contributed to the popularity of the dryer, as these materials were more durable and could withstand the high temperatures of the machine.

In the 1960s, gas-powered dryers were introduced, which used natural gas or propane to generate heat, making them more energy-efficient than electric dryers. Today, both electric and gas-powered dryers are widely used, and they come in a variety of sizes and styles to meet the needs of different households. Electric dryers use dryer elements that are prone to burn out over time.

In recent years, there has been an increased interest in energy-efficient and eco-friendly appliances, and some manufacturers have developed clothes dryers that use innovative technologies such as heat pump technology, which can significantly reduce energy consumption and lower operating costs.

So see, your dryer isn’t all that old! And if your dryer needs help, visit A-1 Appliance Parts for all your dryer parts.

A-1 Supports The Wellhouse

A-1 Appliance Parts supports the mission of The Wellhouse, a rescue center for women and children caught in human tracking. They provide short term and long term shelter as well as trauma care, counseling, and training for a successful life in society. To find out more about The Wellhouse or to donate to their cause, click here.

2023 Wellhouse Gala

You have a Choice with the 280148 thermostat kit!

Whirlpool made dryers come with a high limit thermostat and a thermal fuse that are either on or close to the dryer element housing. More than one housefire has been caused by an overheating dryer full of lint. In fact, a man who works here had his house burn down because the dryer had too much lint (and had clothes piled around it) when the dryer overheated. Dryers generate a lot of heat to push the moisture out of clothes as quickly as possible and they can be downright dangerous. In fact, most dryers have a high limit thermostat that shuts the power off to the element if the dryer gets too hot with a safety backup thermal fuse just behind the thermostat AND another thermal fuse at a different spot in the dryer in case both of those fail!

Many Whirlpool made Duet style dryers used thermal fuse and thermostat kit # 240148 and it was only available from Whirlpool because they threw the aftermarket industry off by using a 50 ohm thermistor on the thermostat. That is not true anymore, however, because Choice Manufacturing came to market with a replacement kit and Exact Replacement Parts soon followed suite.

280148 kit from Choice Manufacturing
280148 kit from Exact Replacement Parts

This kit has a high temperature thermostat (8557403) that cuts power to the element at 295°F. In line with this thermostat is a safety fuse that blows at 352°F. The thermostat will reset when it cools down a bit but the thermal fuse is trash once it blows.

If the thermal fuse blows, it’s always advisable to replace the high limit thermostat that didn’t do its job. That’s why the fuse is only available as part of a kit. If the dryer won’t run at all, there’s another thermal fuse in the back of the dryer that may have blown (if the door switch is ok) and it’s part # W10909685. It looks just like Whirlpool’s more popular WP3392519 fuse except it has bent terminals. The W10909685 blows at 91°C or 196°F (whichever comes first lol).